Project: Ms. Paris Bridal Shop
项目名：女神派婚纱礼服店
Location: Shanghai, China
地点：中国·上海
Designer Architects: ON
设计方：ONDesignLab
1/4 Intro/ 介绍
Wedding dresses are often being reflected as the most elegant and beautiful moment of a woman. When that white dress hangs and drapes, the statement of the natural curvature and movement determines a sense of respected sacredness. The complementary dynamics when the dress is being worn to life by a woman, the sight is unforgettable with irreplaceable purity. Therefore, the design of the space, the architecture that resonates with this essence becomes extremely important. As an architectural space, it needs to serve the dresses as a backdrop with tasteful materials and lighting to further enhance the beauty and elegance of a wedding dress. However, how is it possible to achieve this without it being tacky, or even typical? Similar to other branded shops, the client who created this vision of designer wedding dresses platform, was desperate to search for a position in the market to deliver a message: own less, live more.
婚纱通常被视为女性最优雅美丽的时刻。当一件白色的衣服挂起来，自然曲率和律动决定了一种圣洁的尊重。尤其当女人穿着婚纱时，与之互补的互动性所发出的感觉具有不可替代的纯洁度。因此，空间的设计，与这个本质共鸣的架构变得非常重要。作为一个建筑空间，它需要以优雅的材料和照明为背景服饰，以进一步增强婚纱的美丽和优雅。如果过于典型的设计手法，怎么可能实现呢？基于这个信念，创造了这个设计师婚纱礼服平台愿景的客户，渴望地在市场上传达一个信息：负担更少，活得更多。
2/4 Brand positioning / 品牌定位
As the first flagship store located in Shanghai, MS Paris is set to deliver one of the most unique visions for a platform that shares designer wedding dresses like no others. The first thing the architects needed to do is to create a visual language that belongs to the brand, which is abstracted from the subject itself. The visual language of a subtle curvature that signifies the essence of a weddings turns into an architectural statement that softens the polluted corner that of most traditional retail spaces with hard and defined edges of transition.
作为上海第一家旗舰店，女神派将为一个平台提供最独一无二的视野，分享高端奢华品味的设计师婚纱礼服。设计师需要做的第一件事是创建一个属于品牌的视觉语言，从品牌主体本身抽离出来，使婚纱设计本质的微妙曲线的视觉语言，变成一个建筑声明，软化了大多数传统零售空间的硬体角落。这些零售空间将会更具有所谓与品牌的互动建筑空间语言。
Every architectural space only needs 1-2 defining moments and visual language/ 每个建筑空间只需要1-2个定义时刻和视觉语言。
The importance of architectural language being implemented as part of the architecture will greatly enhance the sense of the brand, in which people will remember by. This abstraction needs to not be literal, but seamlessly transforms as part of the space itself. After that, materials and lighting then become important considerations as part of the space. If designers set out to base their concepts on lighting and material and furniture in the beginning of each project, it is more likely to end up like a decorator’s work, rather than that of a designer or architect. To each its own, it’s hard to say which direction is the proper way to apply design concepts, but one thing is certain that everyone will appreciate the design intelligence if comprehended well.
建筑语言作为建筑结构的一部分，它的重要性将大大增强品牌的视觉体验，人们将会记住这种强烈的视觉映像与品牌之间的直接关系。这种抽像不需要文字，而是作为空间本身的一部分进行抽象转换。之后，作为空间的一部分，材料和照明也将成为重要考虑因素。如果设计在一开始，就将每个项目初期的照明，材料和家具的概念作为基础，那么更有可能像装饰师的工作而不是设计师或建筑师那样的思维。但是对于每个人来说，很难说哪个方向是应用设计理念的正确方法，但是唯一可以确定的是设计必须在逻辑推理以及研究基础上的架构下才能成型。过于具象化的表现只会过于俗气与庸俗。
Inspired by the curvature of the wedding dress, the reveal of the corner provides an ease of transition into the next space. 受到婚纱曲线的启发，角落的露头过渡到下一个空间。
3/4 Lighting as means of integration with architectural form and visual merchandising照明作为与建筑形式和视觉营销相结合的手段
Lighting in a retail space is a very crucial element to be considered as part of the design. The Ms. Paris Bridal shop aims to deliver lighting method in an unconventional way in which the lighting is integrated seamlessly into the architectural space. It’s not ideal to deal with retail lighting for the sake of lighting up the whole space with a whole splash of light, because it then degrades the mood and atmosphere of the space. It’s something most people do not understand or do not accept for their understanding of lighting is to only have enough light, but not considering how lighting plays a part of the architectural story. It should be something integrated, rather than just applied.
零售空间照明被认为是设计中非常关键的因素。女神派旗舰店旨在以非常规的方式提供照明方式，照明方式无缝集成到建筑空间中。零售空间灯光并不是以整体明亮度为准就好, 更不是只要照亮商品就足够。光是这样的手法其实只会降低空间的气氛和感受度。这是大多数人不了解或不接受的，因为他们对照明的理解是只有足够的光，但不考虑照明如何扮演建筑故事的一部分。它应该是集成的东西，而不只是应用。
The movement of the lighting is integrated with the architecture and visual merchandising.
灯光与建筑空间与视觉商品的融合设计呈现
Unlike tradition lighting methods where spot lights are usually used to highlight the displayed item, MS Paris shop uses an integrated lighting system to “wash” the displayed dresses in a clean and elegant way. 与传统的照明方法不同，传统的照明方法通常使用聚光灯来突显展示的物品，而女神派商店则使用集成照明系统以更干净的优雅方式来“洗”亮显示的物品。
The majority of the store design avoids using too much unnecessary lighting such as over exposed down lights or spotlights. Most of the lighting is used in this linear strip integrated together with the arrangement of items and dresses. More importantly, the overall design concept.
整体的商店设计避免使用太多不必要的照明，例如过度暴光的整体灯光或聚光灯。大部分照明用于这种线性模式的灯槽，与物品和礼服的平面展示布置集成在一起。更重要的是整体设计概念融合在一起。
4/4 Conclusion/总结
As an experimental design approach to work with an upcoming brand that delivers high-end designer dresses, there are still many challenges and issues to be solved. This problem is due to the fact typical retailer and merchants are still soaked into the idea of the more the merrier. While this concept may work for warehouse design, supermarkets, outlet stores, and other mix of comparatively less luxurious items, it simply cannot be feasible if you are carrying high-end designer branded clothing, dresses, or items. The mindset needs to shift from being largely available, to being exclusively selective. This also plays with the idea of affordable luxury, momentary ownership of fashion items, and brand loyalty. The gap between fashion retail and fashion rental is still a blurry area to be explored, both with retailers, consumers, and designers. If you lose the appreciation or emotional attachment to branded luxury items, what is the purpose of creating an identity for others to value?
作为一个实验设计方法，与即将推出的高端设计师连衣裙的品牌合作，仍有许多挑战和问题需要解决。这个问题是由于典型的零售商和商家仍然秉持着传统卖场“多即是多”的想法。虽然这个概念可能适用于仓库设计，超级市场，商店，以及其他相对较不奢华的商品组合，但如果作为一个携带高端设计师品牌的服装，连衣裙或物品的品牌平台，这根本就不可行。心态需要从大量可用的角度转向纯粹的选择性。这也体现了奢侈品，时尚品牌的瞬间所有权和品牌忠诚度的理念。
时尚零售和时尚租赁之间的差距仍然是零售商，这是消费者和设计师都要探索的模糊区域。如果您失去对品牌奢侈品的欣赏或情感依恋，试问品牌创造价值的目的是什么？
The entire design of the store is designed using the classic black and white color palette. 整体主要色系仍然是以经典黑白色打造，但是也使用大量的纯粹水泥建材来突显现代设计与精品设计的视觉冲突。整体店面设计的线形光源与空间达成了一种律动的和谐感。整体店面也不会过于曝光，也不会感觉俗气或是庸俗。
Conceptual Renderings showing the overall lighting concept. Although many may argue it being too cold, gloomy, or dark, but I personally think this can accent the purity of the all-white wedding dresses. I prefer this method of extreme design to combine retail concepts that are different from standardized protocols. After all, despite of the retail value and commercialism of what design brings, it’s always positive for a design approach to create a topic of discuss, regardless of it being positive or negative.
这是前期的设计原稿效果图。希望能透过这个图像表达整体灯光的运用概念。虽然很多人或许会觉得过于冰冷，阴暗，但是我个人觉得这样才能突显婚纱本身代表的圣洁跟纯洁。我个人非常偏好极端设计的手法，而不是一般人认知与期待的形式。即便手法有待加强或是与标准商业空间标准有待磨合，但是这样子的感觉仍然是耳目一新。毕竟，设计不就是希望能造成一些话题讨论的价值吗？
*注：本文由行家说APP与行家专栏作者DavidC.Chen联合出品。独家授权公众号西顿照明（cdn-lighting）发布，谢绝任何未经许可的转载。详情咨询微信号：hangjia199
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